4th Texas Authenticity Standards

CONFEDERATE

4^TH TEXAS, CO. E Impression

UNIFORM

GENERAL NOTES: All uniforms should be appropriately sewn, made of proper materials, and be constructed in the correct “cut”. Proper stitching is encouraged, as are hand sewn buttonholes. This applies for uniform jackets, frocks, trousers, vests, overcoats, shirts, drawers, suspenders, and stockings.

Civil War uniforms were provided in a limited number of sizes when issued from depots, so members are strongly encouraged to stick to regulation sizes. Also, Confederate soldiers scrounged clothing from whatever source they could find to replace lost or worn out clothing and were known for wearing garments originally worn from home or shipped to them by mail from relatives, so except for documented cases, in most instances this aspect should be reflected in your impression. Therefore, especially when portraying an enlisted man, avoid the “cookie-cutter soldier” appearance provided by a tailored uniform. Also, do not be afraid to cuff, blouse (except on formal occasions such as parade, inspection, or guard duty), or wear “high water” trousers as soldiers often did this in an attempt to make their clothing fit, as the only alternative was to wear the undersized clothing or try to trade amongst their fellow soldiers until, if possible, they found the right size. If the issue size or scrounged clothing does not fit you perfectly, then it is probably correct.

    Another important, often over-represented feature of Confederate impressions is the inclusion of captured Union clothing and equipment. Although the stripping and rifling of the dead for clothing and equipment certainly did occur on a relatively rare basis, members are strongly discouraged from constantly wearing “foraged” Union items. Members are strongly encouraged to develop a total “Confederate” impression. The inclusion of Federal clothing and equipment in an impression or scenario shall only occur when it is historically accurate, appropriate, or plausible for the impression or scenario that the unit is portraying at that time.

HEADGEAR.

Forage Cap

There are two styles of forage caps. For purpose here, we will delineate them “Type 1” and “Type 2”. Of the two basic forage cap styles, preference should be given to the Type 1 forage cap, because the Type 1 was more predominate than the Type 2. The Type 1 style has a crescent shaped with a slightly slanting visor while the Type 2 caps have a rectangular visor that usually lays flat. The sides of the brim shall not be turned downward in the style of modern baseball caps.

Forage caps shall be made of a plain-weave wool or wool jean material with no visible weave. Visors and chinstraps shall be painted leather or painted oilcloth. Buttons shall be small type (Script I, State, U.S. Eagle, or Solid Brass are acceptable). Cap liners shall be brown or black polished cotton or another period material. The cap shall have leather or painted cloth sweatband. Any leather used on the hat shall be 100% real leather. No modern synthetics allowed.

TRIM & INSIGNIA: Members are discouraged from adding brass ornamentation to their headgear (i.e. bugles, harps, etc). The wearing of brass regimental numbers and company letters is allowed, but is discouraged unless the scenario calls for it (i.e. 4^th Texas, winter of 61’ to mid/late 62’). It is preferred that headgear be plain with no ornamentation of any kind.

[EOG/CS pages 164-165]

Kepis

Kepis shall be made of a plain-weave wool, wool-jean, or cotton-jean material with no visible weave. Visors and chinstraps shall be of painted leather or painted oilcloth. Buttons shall be small type (Script I, State, U.S. Eagle, or Solid Brass are acceptable). Cap liners shall be brown or black polished cotton or another period material and the cap shall have leather or painted cloth sweatband. Any leather used on the hat shall be 100% real leather. No modern synthetics allowed. The sides of the brim shall not be turned downward in the style of modern baseball caps. Only officers shall wear kepis ornamented with gold braid. Brass ornamentation and insignia shall conform to the requirements for forage caps. [EOG/CS pages 156, 162-163]

U.S. Army Hats/ “Kossuth Hats”

Use of the U.S. army regulation hat (a.k.a. “Hardee Hat”; note that this is a non-period term) is permitted as Confederate manufactures made their own copies of this style of hat, although members are encouraged to obtain another piece of headgear. U.S. army style hats shall be black in color and made of medium-weight felt, with a crown 5 ¾ inches high and a brim 3 to 3 1/4 inches wide. U.S. army style hats shall have two lines of stitching as an edge binding and a 3/8^th inch to 5/16^th inch wide ribbon hat-band knotted on the left side. The liner shall include a black or maroon leather sweatband and glazed paper crown backing. Any leather used on the hat shall be 100% real leather. No modern synthetics allowed. Brass ornamentation and insignia shall conform to the requirements for forage caps. [EOG/US page 120]

Civilian Hats

Period-style civilian hats are permitted and all members are highly encouraged to obtain one. Civilian hats shall be devoid of hat cords. Civilian hats shall have a sewn edge binding, a silk hat ribbon, and a sweatband of leather or cotton duck. Civilian hats shall be made of fine wool felt and shall not include metal-trimmed vents or exhibit a “frizzy” appearance. “Steamed fedoras”, derbies, and shapeless hat blanks are forbidden. Acceptable colors are medium to dark gray, medium to dark brown, and black. Any leather used on the hat shall be 100% real leather. No modern synthetics allowed. Brass ornamentation and insignia shall conform to the requirements for forage caps. [EOG/CS pages 157, 166-169]

Other Headgear

Mechanic hats, Mexican war hats, and painted oilcloth hats constructed of proper materials are allowed, although members are encouraged to obtain another piece of headgear. Although documentation supporting the wearing of straw hats exists and is allowed, members are strongly discouraged from wearing a straw hat exclusively and are encouraged to obtain another piece of headgear. Havelocks are not allowed unless documentation supports their use in a given scenario. Any leather used on the hat shall be 100% real leather. No modern synthetics allowed. Brass ornamentation and insignia shall conform to the requirements for forage caps.

Headgear for Commissioned Officers

Headgear for officers is at the discretion of the officer and shall be suitable for the scenario and portrayal. Acceptable headgear includes: forage caps, kepis’, civilian headgear, private purchased headgear, and U.S. headgear. Hats may be worn with or without embroidered branch insignia. Dress hats and civilian hats may be worn with or without hat cords. Any leather used on the hat shall be 100% real leather. No modern synthetics allowed.  [EOG/CS pages 160-161 (kepis’), pages 164-165 (forage caps), pages 157, 166-169 (civilian hats); EOG/US pages 114-115, 118-123 (U.S. headgear)]

Camp Wear

Soft “smoking caps” are acceptable when soldiers are off-duty. All “smoking caps”/camp wear must be of a period-correct material and be constructed in a proper, documented fashion. [EOG/CS page 159, 170-171]

UNIFORM COATS AND JACKETS

(Note: The nomenclature generally used to describe a jacket, such as Richmond Depot I, II, III, or Type I, II, III are modern terms and incorrect, but to facilitate a better understanding and idea of the jacket described, the classifications Type I, II, and III will be used here.)

Type I Jacket

The Type I jacket was an early war jacket and was produced from late 61’ to late 62’. The Type I jacket had a six-piece body, two-piece sleeve, and nine-button front that characterized later shell jackets, while also displaying a set of epaulets on the shoulders and belt loops on the waist. What distinguished the Type I jacket from those that followed was the colorful piping and trim that usually adorned the jacket. Most of the Type I jackets were made of wool-jean or cadet gray wool fabrics, and lined with osnaburg, a coarse cotton cloth that lined the insides of most enlisted men’s jackets throughout the war. Unit members are urged NOT to purchase a Type I jacket as research has shown that the 4^th Texas, Co. E was outfitted with frock coats during the early war period. If a member wishes to purchase or make a Type I jacket, we urge that he not do so until after their 63’ impression and correct 4^th Texas Co. E early war impressions are completed. [EOG/CS page 134]

Type II Jacket

The Type II jacket is the style STRONGLY recommended for purchase by the unit. The Type II jacket maintained the six-piece body, two-piece sleeves, nine-button front, plain cuffs, epaulets and belt loops, but lacked the piping and trim of the Type I jacket. Type II jackets were probably produced from mid 62’ until 64’ when the Type III jacket came into prominence. Type II jackets purchased or made by members shall be appropriately sewn out of wool-jean material, and be constructed in the correct cut listed above (some original Type II jackets have been observed to be missing either the set of epaulets or the set of belt loops while retaining the other set which suggests a possible transitional period into the production of Type III jackets, so the purchase or production of a Type II jacket with epaulets and no belt loops or belt loops and no epaulets is okay). Proper stitching is highly encouraged, as are hand sewn buttonholes. Type II jackets shall be outfitted with Block Script “I”, State, or U.S. Eagle buttons. Jackets shall be lined with osnaburg, cotton flannel, or civilian shirt material (See Standards on Civilian Shirt Material) with osnaburg being the preferred lining. [EOG/CS page 135]

Type III Jacket

The Type III jacket was produced from late 63’ to the end of the war. The Type III jacket maintained the standard construction of the Type II jacket, but was distinguished from the Type II by the absence of epaulets and belt loops. One major contrast of the Type III jackets compared to the Type I and II’s was the material used to construct the Type III jackets. Nearly all-surviving original Type III jackets are made exclusively of English Blue or English Gray kersey wool cloth. Research and original documents have confirmed that large quantities of bulk woolen cloth was bought by Confederate purchasing agents in England, then shipped through the blockade, and distributed to Southern manufacturing centers where it was constructed into Type III jackets and trousers. In obedience to these facts, all Type III jackets purchased or made by members must be constructed out of an English Blue or English Gray wool kersey cloth. Jackets must be appropriately sewn and be constructed in the correct cut (six-piece body, two-piece sleeves, nine-button front, plain cuffs). Proper stitching is highly encouraged as are hand sewn buttonholes. Type III jackets shall be outfitted with Block Script “I”, State, or U.S. Eagle buttons. Jackets shall be lined with osnaburg, cotton flannel, or civilian shirt material (See Standards for Civilian Shirt Material) with osnaburg being the preferred lining. [EOG/CS pages 136-137]

Frock Coat

A popular and functional style of coat in day-to-day wear before the war, the frock coat was quickly pressed into service to clothe Confederate troops. Frock coats are longer style garments and are the precursor to the shell jacket. The frock coat displays many of the same characteristics of the shell jacket such as the two-piece sleeves and nine-button front. The frock coat differs from a shell jacket in that it has a “skirt” attached at the bottom edge of the main body that gives it the characterization of a coat. All frock coats purchased or made by members shall be appropriately sewn, made of wool-jean material and be constructed in the correct cut of a frock coat. Proper stitching is highly encouraged, as are hand-sewn buttonholes. Frock coats may have either straight-cut or “balloon” style sleeves, and all sleeves must be lined in either osnaburg or white muslin. Lining the rest of the coat is at the discretion of the wearer as many were made without linings or the lining was cut out for personal comfort. Frock coats shall be single breasted (commissioned officers may wear double-breasted frocks) and all frocks should contain some degree of quilted padding in the chest, giving the frock a “pigeon-breasted” look that was the popular style. All frock coat skirts shall be cut squarely across the bottom front, and the collar at the neck of the coat shall not be taller than two inches. Frock coats shall be outfitted with Block Script “I”, U.S. “Eagle”, wood, or appropriate civilian coat buttons. Frock coasts shall not display piping or any other attachments unless otherwise deemed appropriate for the impression or scenario. [EOG/CS pages 130-131]

Other Jackets and Coats

Three other jackets that may have come into contact with the 4^th Texas late in the war include the loose, unfitted, sack coat, the Peter Tait jacket, and Georgia Depot jackets. The sack coat is a loose, unfitted, four-button, middle length coat based on a popular civilian pattern that was known for its comfort made from wool-jean material. The Peter Tait jacket was an English imported jacket made by Peter Tait of Limerick, Ireland. A five-piece body, eight-button front, linen lining, and epaulets characterize this jacket, while some also displayed blue piping around the epaulets and collar. All of the Tait jackets were made from the same English Blue or Gray wool kersey material that Type III jackets were made of. Finally, Georgia Depot jackets were shell jackets made from wool-jean material displaying five or six button fronts. This information is included because the 4^th Texas may have encountered these jackets, but there is as of yet no direct evidence. Members are strongly discouraged from purchasing or making these jackets until their 63’ and early war impressions are complete and further research is done on this topic. [EOG/CS (sack coat) page 138, (Peter Tait jacket) page 139, (Georgia Depot jackets) pages 142-143]

SHIRTS

Depot Issue, State Issue, and Import Shirts

All fabrics must be woven of 100% natural wool or fiber (cotton, linen, muslin, flannel, wool). All shirts purchased or made by members shall be square cut or fitted around the shoulders though square cut is preferred as the fitted style, which originated in France, only came into popularity amongst those who could afford it in the 1850’s. Shirts shall preferably have a placket front secured by one or more buttons. Shirts must have wood, bone, mother-of-pearl, glass, porcelain, India rubber, or paperbacked tin buttons. Antique or properly made reproduction buttons can be purchased from suppliers on the Vendor List. [EOG/CS pages 154-155]

Civilian and Industry Manufactured Shirts

All fabrics must be woven of 100% natural fiber (cotton, linen, muslin, flannel, wool). Only period correct prints (paisley prints, no matter how historically correct, is strongly discouraged) may be worn. All shirts purchased or made by members shall be square cut or fitted around the shoulder though square cut is definitely preferred for civilian shirts. Unless they are pleated front shirts, all other shirts are preferred to have a placket front secured by one or more buttons. Collar attachments on the shirt are also allowed. Shirts must have wood, bone, mother-of-pearl, glass, porcelain, India rubber, or paperbacked tin buttons. Antique or properly made reproduction buttons can be purchased from suppliers on the Vendor List. [EOG/CS pages 154-155]

TROUSERS

(Note: The proper waistline of the period was the naval, just under the lower ribs. Trousers should not be worn like modern pants with the waistband on top of the hip-bones, but at their proper height.)

Depot, State, and Contract Issue Trousers

Depot, state, and contract issue trousers were the Confederate government and individual states attempt to meet the constant clothing demands of their men in uniform. Depot, state, or contract trousers purchased or made by members shall be appropriately sewn, made of wool kersey, wool-jean, cotton-jean, cotton drill, cord-du-roy, satinette, or cassimere material, and be constructed in a period correct style. Proper stitching is highly encouraged, as are hand sewn buttonholes. All trousers shall have a fly front construction, and a straight-edged waistband or a straight-edged waistband that is ‘bent’ up and rises steadily in the back. Trousers may have a vent in the back and have eyelets for tying it closed or a strap and buckle arrangement. Trousers shall have ‘mule ear’ or side-seam pockets, straight out seams, and may have watch-pockets and be unlined, partially lined, or fully lined. If lined, the lining shall be cotton drill, cotton muslin, cotton flannel, or osnaburg. Piping or trim worn on the seams of trousers is optional. All trousers shall have button arrangements for braces either mounted to the outside or inside of the waistband. Buttons on trousers may be japanned tin, bone, wood, hard rubber, gutta percha, paperbacked tin or painted metal with a stippled edge. [EOG/CS pages 152-153]

Civilian Trousers

Civilian trousers sent from home, privately purchased, or scavenged from other sources were common in the ranks of Confederate armies. Members are encouraged to make or purchase a pair of civilian trousers. Civilian trousers shall be appropriately sewn. Civilian trousers shall be constructed in a period correct style and may be made of wool broadcloth, wool kersey, wool-jean, cotton-jean, cotton drill, linen, cord-du-roy, satinette, or cassimere material. Proper stitching is highly encouraged, as are hand sewn buttonholes. All trousers shall have a fly front construction and either a straight-edged waistband or a straight-edged waistband that is ‘bent’ up and rises steadily in the back. Trousers may have a vent in the back and have eyelets for tying the vent closed or utilize a strap and buckle arrangement. Trousers shall have ‘mule ear’ or side-seam pockets, straight, slightly tapered, or shaped out seams, and may have watch-pockets, and be unlined, partially lined, or fully lined. If lined, the lining shall be of cotton drill, cotton muslin, cotton flannel, or osnaburg. All trousers shall have button arrangements for braces either mounted to the outside or inside of the waistband. Buttons on trousers can be japanned tin, bone, wood, hard rubber, gutta percha, paperbacked tin or painted metal with a stippled edge. [EOG/CS pages 152-153]

 SUSPENDERS/BRACES

Civilian

Suspenders purchased or made by members shall be appropriately sewn and be constructed in a correct manner. Proper stitching is highly encouraged as are hand sewn buttonholes. Any type of period civilian model: All-cloth “poor boys” or adjustable braces with tin, brass, or japanned steel buckles are allowed. Buckles of nickel-plated metal and stainless steel are not allowed. Canvas, drill, tapestry, ticking, embroidered, crocheted, or woven suspenders are acceptable. Leather ends on suspenders must be 100% natural leather. No modern synthetics allowed. Period correct elastic suspenders are allowed if properly constructed.

VESTS/WAISTCOATS

Military/Civilian

Vests were not a regular army-issue item, but were found in abundance among the men who filled the ranks of the Confederate armies. Therefore, vests are allowed, but if purchased or made by members, they must be appropriately sewn and be constructed in a period correct manner. Proper stitching is highly encouraged, as are hand sewn buttonholes. Because vests are/were not a required item, this is one of the few means by which a man could/can express his individuality in dress. Materials used in the constriction of vests may vary though woolen material, cotton material, wool-cotton blends; cord-du-roys, satinette’s, and cassimere material are preferred. Muslin, linen, and polished cotton are typical materials used in construction of the back panel and tightening structures located on the back of the garment. Vests may be either single or double-breasted, have shawled, lapelled, or short military collars (NOTE: short military collars are not common on civilian vests). All vests should be cut squarely across the bottom in front, displaying no “points” as seen on later vests. Any buckles on the tightening structure should be japanned steel or unfinished iron. Nickel plated and stainless steel buckles are not allowed. Buttons on vests should be either cloth covered buttons, glass, silk thread buttons, hard rubber, gutta percha, japanned metal, stippled edge metal, bone, or wood buttons. [EOG/CS pages 106, 112-113]

 DRAWERS

All drawers purchased or made by members shall be appropriately sewn and be constructed in a period correct manner. Proper stitching is strongly encouraged, as are hand sewn buttonholes. Drawers should be made of plain cotton or Canton flannel material. Ties at the cuffs are at the owners’ discretion. Drawers may have bone, wood, mother-of-pearl, or paperbacked tin buttons. (NOTE: In warm weather, soldiers often cut the legs off their drawers to make a version of modern shorts) [EOG/CS page 154]

 STOCKINGS/SOCKS

(Note: The vast majority of large, general sutlers do not sell proper socks.)

All stockings and socks purchased or made by members shall be appropriately sewn and be constructed in a period correct manner. Proper stitching is strongly encouraged. Modern athletic socks should not be worn. Period machine knit and hand-knit socks are preferred. Off-white, gray, grayish blue, blue, brown, and mixtures of these colors are strongly recommended. [EOG/CS page 175]

SHOES

(Note: Gaiters and modern shoes are not allowed in ranks. Boots are highly discouraged. Blousing your trousers is not allowed during formal occasions).

All shoes, also known as a “Bootee” or “Jefferson Bootee”, purchased by members shall be constructed of period correct materials. All Booties should have a slightly squared toe and have pegged or stitched soles with black leather laces to secure the shoe to the foot. The smooth side of the leather shall be towards the inside of the shoe. Avoid shoes with a heavy, suede-like nap. While metal heel plates were not an issue item, they are recommended in order to prolong the life of reproduction shoes. Toe plates and hobnails are acceptable as long as they are of a period pattern. [EOG/CS pages 174-175]

OVERCOATS

(Note: In 1863 a general order was given to dye all captured federal overcoats a dark color because pickets were being mistakenly shot. Therefore, a dark colored overcoat might serve better than using a federal overcoat.)

Overcoats, also known as “greatcoats” are a welcome addition to your impression although overcoats should only be utilized when appropriate for the scenario or impression being portrayed. From late April through early to mid-September, due to a lack of need for them and a desire to cut down on weight carried during the spring and summer campaign season, most overcoats were generally placed in storage or even tossed away by their owners. Due to the wide variety of styles, both civilian and military, one specific style is not preferred over another although cavalry greatcoats are not acceptable in ranks. Overcoats purchased or made by members shall be appropriately sewn and be constructed in a period correct manner. Proper stitching is highly encouraged, as are hand sewn buttonholes. All overcoats shall be made of wool or wool-jean material. Overcoats may be lined or unlined. If lined, the preferred lining materials are Canton flannel, osnaburg, cotton muslin, or civilian shirt material (See Civilian Shirt Material Standards). Overcoats shall be outfitted with Block Script “I”, U.S. “Eagle”, cloth covered, or wood buttons. State buttons are allowed but discouraged. [EOG/CS pages 150-151]

MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS

Eyewear

If corrective lenses are required, contact lenses are preferred. If glasses are worn, they shall be period correct. Nose-rest pads on eyewear are not allowed. Sunglasses, period or not, are not allowed. No modern eyewear is allowed at any time (except in the most dire of circumstances; Safety First!).

Chevrons

NCO’s are encouraged to wear chevrons commensurate with their rank. No member of the company shall wear a rank insignia above his official rank unless so appointed by the company commander. Company NCO chevrons shall be of black worsted wool. Other chevrons as authorized by the battalion shall conform to army regulations relative to material and configuration. All chevrons should be hand sewn to garments. [EOG/CS page 141 (Bottom jacket, chevrons on the sleeves)]

Insignia for Commissioned Officers

Insignia of rank should be worn by commissioned officers unless documentation suggests otherwise for a given scenario or impression. Insignia shall be piping or badges on the collar commensurate with their rank or shoulder straps commensurate with their rank. [EOG/CS page 147 (Collar)]

Sashes

When required and appropriate for the scenario and portrayal, sergeants, principal musicians, and commissioned officers may wear sashes. Sashes for non-commissioned officers shall be red-knitted wool, knotted at both ends, and approximately nine feet in length. Sashes for commissioned officers may be silk netting or knitted wool and shall be scarlet (maroon) in color, knotted at both ends, and approximately nine feet in length. Other ranks shall not wear sashes. [EOG/CS Officers sash page 111: NCO sash page 128]

BLANKETS, WATERPROOFS, AND TENTAGE

(GENERAL NOTES: Sleeping bags, air and/or foam mattresses, and any other similar modern amenities are NOT allowed at any time.)

BLANKETS

Military Issue

Both governments had problems keeping up with the demand for blankets. Between their own woolen mill products, contractors, foreign imports, and old 1812 and Mexican War surplus, there was a wide variety of sizes and colors in military issue blankets. All blankets purchased by members shall be constructed of period materials. Blankets shall be made of wool or wool-cotton blends. Confederate and U.S. blankets may be used. Colors may vary between light brown with dark stripes, brown, light brown, gray, gray with dark stripes, blue, blue with dark stripes, and white with dark stripes (Mexican war vintage). Federal blankets may have a U.S. marking stitched into them with yarn or stenciled on them with paint. In the case of U.S. blankets, they should at least have the manufacturer’s markings on them as was required by the government in mid 62’. [EOG/CS page 203: EOG/US page 214]

Civilian Blankets

Among Confederate troops, civilian blankets sent from home, blankets purchased by individual soldiers, or scavenged blankets from whatever source they could find played an important role in protecting the troops from the elements. All civilian blankets purchased by members shall be constructed of period correct materials. Browns, light browns, blues, grays, reds, oranges, greens, checkered color blankets, and blankets of these colors with or without stripe combinations are all acceptable. All blankets shall be made of wool or wool-cotton blends. [EOG/CS page 203]

Miscellaneous Sleeping Covers

Confederate troops often utilized whatever they could acquire. Quilts, pieces of carpet, rugs, and coverlets are all applicable to the Confederate impression depending upon the scenario. If any of these coverings are utilized, they must be constructed of period materials in a period fashion.

OILCLOTHS, PAINTED BLANKETS, GUM BLANKETS, AND PONCHOS

Oilcloths and Painted Blankets

Oilcloths and painted blankets purchased or made by members shall be constructed of period materials. Cotton drill and linen duck fabrics soaked in a linseed oil mixture with black pigment are acceptable. All oilcloth’s/painted blankets shall have 3/8 inch diameter brass reinforced grommets and should be able to be tied around the owners shoulders and used as a poncho if need be. Oilcloths and painted blankets are preferred over federal rubberized gum blankets and ponchos as the latter two were Union issue items, not confederate. [EOG/US page 215]

Gum Blankets and Poncho’s

The difference between gum blankets and ponchos is that ponchos have a slit in the middle for your head to fit through. Gum blankets and ponchos purchased by members shall be constructed of period materials in a period fashion. Gum blankets and ponchos should be made of a rubber coated cotton drill, linen duck, or muslin material with an uneven pattern of reinforced 3/8-inch diameter brass grommets. The grommet spacing is used to ensure that the gum blanket can be tied around the owners shoulders and used as a poncho if need be. [EOG/US page 215]

TENTAGE

(Note: When in the field, the 4^th Texas Co.E/16^th Michigan Co. B reenacting organization shall develop their impression to fit the scenario being portrayed. When portraying a campaign or bivouac impression, a company fly and or “dog tent” (two shelter halves buttoned together) are the only pieces of canvas allowed. Wedge tents, otherwise known as “A-frames” or anything larger are prohibited unless dictated otherwise by the scenario or impression portrayed.)

Shelter Halves

Shelter halves purchased or made by members shall be appropriately sewn and constructed in a correct manner. Proper stitching is highly encouraged as are hand sewn buttonholes and/or grommet holes. Shelter halves shall not have brass grommets. Shelter halves should have at the very least, 8 3/8 inch, hand sewn grommet holes: two at each corner with hemp, manila, or sisal line rope looped through the grommet holes and knotted off at each end so it will not pull through. Shelter halves shall be made of cotton sailcloth, linen duck, or cotton drill material. Early war federal shelter halves should be a three panel model with bone buttons. Late war federal shelter halves should be a two panel model preferably with paper backed tin or metal buttons. Period-style maker-marks on each shelter half is highly encouraged. Acceptable maker marks are J.T.Martin, Fox & Polhemus, Joseph Lee, H.S.McComb, and B.Hansell. [EOG/US page 214]

Tent Accoutrements

Wooden tent stakes are highly encouraged, although iron stakes are allowed (remember, you will have to carry the extra weight!!). Shelter tent poles (if used at all) should be wooden tree limbs with the bark left on. Finished timber used for tent poles is forbidden. An alternative to tree branches is muskets with fixed bayonets used as upright tent supports. Hemp rope is preferred for use with tentage, although manila or sisal line rope and rawhide are acceptable substitutes.

 ACCOUTREMENTS AND CAMP EQUIPMENT

(GENERAL NOTES: “Accoutrements” include the cartridge box and sling, waist-belt, belt plate, cap box, bayonet scabbard, and applicable side-arm accoutrements. “Camp Equipment” includes the haversack, canteen, and knapsack.

All “accoutrements” and applicable “camp equipment” shall be worn at the proper height. The waist-belt should be worn about the center of the stomach (over the naval). Haversack and canteen straps shall be the proper length, so that the top of the haversack and canteen are approximately equal with the elbow. If necessary, straps shall be shortened for the haversack and canteen [cut and shortened or cut and sewn shorter].)

 HAVERSACK

(Note: Haversacks were intended to carry food, not personal items. Items in the haversack should be carried in “poke sacks” (cotton bags). Also, tin-wear should be hitched to the outside of the haversack only when there is insufficient room for mess gear within the haversack [nobody wants to hear you clank all over the place or get their hands crushed and bruised during maneuvers!])

Confederate Haversacks

Confederate haversacks encompassed a wide variety of sizes, shapes, materials, and colors. All haversacks purchased or made by members shall be appropriately sewn and constructed in a period correct manner. Proper stitching is highly encouraged as are hand sewn buttonholes. Cotton drill, muslin, linen, ticking, painted canvas, and oilcloth are all acceptable material for haversacks. Tapestry haversacks are discouraged. Wood, bone, paper backed tin, japanned tin, hard rubber, and stamped metal buttons are all acceptable. All buckles shall be japanned steel or unfinished iron. Nickel plated and stainless steel buckles are not allowed. Any leather straps must be 100% natural leather. No modern synthetics allowed. [EOG/CS page 201]

Commissioned Officer Haversack

Commissioned officers may use either a commissioned officer’s haversack or any other haversack that meets the requirements specified above for Confederate haversacks. All commissioned officer’s haversacks purchased or made by members shall be appropriately sewn and constructed in a period correct manner. Proper stitching is highly encouraged as are hand sewn buttonholes. Officer’s haversacks shall be either patent or dyed leather, painted canvas, or oilcloth with adjustable straps. All buckles shall be japanned steel or unfinished iron. Nickel plated and stainless steel buckles are not allowed. All leather must be 100% natural leather. No modern synthetics allowed. {EOG/CS page 200]

CANTEEN

Confederate Canteens

Due to the Confederacy’s lack of stamping dies for the federal type sphere canteen, several substitutes and old models were pressed into service such as militia type tin drum canteens, U.S. Army Mexican War issue wooden canteens (most of them based on a pattern by F.J.Gardner), and various rugged glass flasks, and compartment canteens which were designed to filter stagnant water. Any of these types of canteens purchased by members shall be appropriately constructed in a period correct manner. Any canteen covers shall be gray or brown colored and preferably be made of wool-jean, cotton-jean, or satinette material. Canvas, cotton drill, linen, and ticking are preferred for canteen straps with leather being a last choice (leather was needed elsewhere for shoes, saddles, accoutrements, etc…). Cork, corncobs, and carved wood are acceptable as stoppers for canteens. String, twine, and leather are highly preferred in lieu of metal chains to connect stoppers to canteens (metal was needed elsewhere).

[EOG/CS pages 208-211]

CARTRIDGE BOX AND SIDE-ARM ACCOUTREMENTS

Cartridge Box

All cartridge boxes purchased or made by members shall be appropriately constructed in a period correct manner. All cartridge boxes shall be made of either leather or painted cloth. Cartridge boxes shall be hand sewn and preferably have hand-forged buckles. Buckles shall be made of tin, japanned steel or unfinished iron. Nickel plated and stainless steel buckles are not allowed. Cartridge boxes shall have brass or lead stud fasteners and be of either .58 caliber or .69 caliber size. Cartridge boxes shall have two tin liners or a single large tin liner per Confederate regulations. Cartridge boxes may or may not have implement pouches on the outside of the box and all cartridge boxes shall have an inner flap. Cartridge boxes may have either one or two straps on the backside for suspension purposes and may be suspended by either a belt or a strap. Cartridge box straps shall be made of leather, painted cloth, canvas, or ticking material. Cartridge boxes may or may not display a proper manufacturer’s mark. [EOG/CS pages 185, 192-199]

Pistol Holster

Pistol holsters shall be worn only by commissioned officers who elect to carry side-arms. Pistol holsters purchased or made by members shall be appropriately constructed in a period correct manner. Pistol holsters shall be hand-sewn and may be fastened closed by either a brass or lead stud, a leather keeper, or by a buckle enclosure. Pistol holsters shall be made of leather and have one or two straps on the back side for suspension purposes. Buckles if used shall be hand-forged and shall be made of tin, japanned steel or unfinished iron. Nickel plated and stainless steel buckles are not allowed. [EOG/CS pages 193, 207]

CAP BOX

Confederate

All cap boxes purchased or made by members shall be appropriately constructed in a period correct manner. All cap boxes shall be made of either leather or painted cloth. Cap boxes shall be hand sewn and have brass or lead studs, or a leather keeper for a closure mechanism. All cap boxes shall have an inner flap and a sheepskin liner. Cone pick loops for carrying a cone pick (“nipple pick”) are optional. Cap boxes may have one or two straps on the backside for suspension purposes or an angled belt loop (like on English imports) for suspension from the cartridge box shoulder strap. Cap boxes may or may not display a proper manufacture’s mark. [EOG/CS pages 185, 194-199, 206-207]

WAIST BELT AND BELT PLATE

 Waist Belt

All waist belts purchased or made by members shall be made of leather, painted cloth, or canvas material. Minimum width of a waist belt shall be 1-7/8^th inches; maximum width shall be 2 inches. If a “keeper” is used, a standing leather loop keeper is preferred though brass keepers are acceptable but strongly discouraged. If a standing leather loop keeper is used, it should be hand-sewn to the belt. [EOG/CS pages 192-199, 206-207]

Belt Plates, Frames, and Buckles

Due to the wide variety of belt plates, frames, buckles, S-hooks, and interlocking hook-and-eye buckles used by Confederate troops, any of these styles are acceptable. Oval and rectangular belt plates shall be either total brass manufactured or have a brass-face with a lead solder filling and either two “puppy-paw” or two “snake-head” hooks. This type of plate may have militia, state emblem, star, C.S., U.S., or federal eagle markings though C.S. markings (especially on oval plates) are highly discouraged. All belt frames must be made from brass or unfinished iron and shall be of the “wishbone” or “Georgia frame” variety. All belt buckles, such as the “roller” buckle, shall be hand-forged and made of japanned steel or unfinished iron. Nickel plated and stainless steel buckles are not allowed. S-hook and interlocking hook-and-eye buckles shall be made of brass. [EOG/CS page 184, 190-191, 195-196]

Commissioned Officer Sword Belt/Buckle

All commissioned officers sword belts shall be made of Buff leather, Waxed leather, Grain leather, painted cloth, or embroidered canvas. Sword belts for commissioned officers should be approximately 1-5/8^th inches wide. Belt length should be adjustable by means of a brass buckle and should have a leather keeper. Buckle closure may be any of the buckle types listed in the Belt Plate/Frames/Buckle section. Belts should include two brass loops that may connect the main belt segments as well as the attached straps or the brass loops may be attached by two pieces of leather reinforcing sewn to the belt or brass slip attachments. Belts should include two straps that are looped through and secured by brass rivets, buckles, hand-sewing, or brass slip attachments (if buckles are used here, they should be made of japanned steel or unfinished iron. Nickel plated and stainless steel are not allowed). Each strap shall have a brass swivel snap. The belt should have a 1-inch wide adjustable baldric (shoulder strap) with leather keeper and brass closure hook; the baldric may be removed at the officers’ discretion. Belts may have a U-shaped brass attachment for suspension of the sword. [EOG/CS pages 186-189]

BAYONET AND SCABBARD

Scabbard

Acceptable scabbard patterns include the “all-sewn” scabbard, two rivet scabbard, seven rivet scabbard, and two-piece English scabbard and frog, although members are urged to give preference to the “all-sewn” and two rivet variety when purchasing scabbards. “All-sewn”, two rivet, and seven rivet scabbards shall be made of leather or painted cloth while two-piece English scabbards and frogs may only be made of leather. Any buckles on an English scabbard and frog must be made of tin, japanned steel or unfinished iron. Nickel plated and stainless steel buckles are not allowed. All scabbards shall be equipped with a brass tip for safety considerations; this tip should be attached to the scabbard body with two to four small brass or copper brads. Gluing on a scabbard tip is strongly discouraged. [EOG/CS page 195, EOG/US page 202]

Bayonet

All bayonets shall be made of carbon steel and shall be correct for the weapon in use. All bayonets shall have a locking ring. Members should remove the “INDIA” stamp from their bayonets with a file and emery cloth. The sharpening of bayonets is expressly prohibited. All members are strongly and highly encouraged to obtain an original bayonet as original’s are more durable than reproductions.

KNAPSACK

(Note: Unless specifically dictated otherwise by the scenario, members are highly encouraged to wear knapsacks {“full marching order”} to all marches, battles, and demonstration where the company is portraying soldiers on campaign. Members may also wear blanket rolls {“mule collars”} in lieu of knapsacks.

            Knapsacks are not appropriate at dress parade, modern-day parades, and ceremonies. Although there are sewing differences between early war and late war knapsacks, for a late war knapsack impression, discard the removable wooden frame, and affix a leather disk over the head of the brass stud that connects the shoulder straps and load bearing straps [applicable knapsacks for this include the double bag knapsack].)

Single/Double Bag Knapsack

All knapsacks purchased or made by members shall be made of painted coarse linen canvas, painted sailcloth, or painted cotton drill material. All straps on knapsacks shall be of 100% leather. No modern synthetics allowed. Rear closure straps on Double Bag knapsacks may be sewn on or riveted on. All closure buckles shall be japanned, painted black steel, or unfinished iron. Nickel plated and stainless steel buckles are not allowed. Shoulder straps and load-bearing straps may be connected by brass studs or simply sewn together. Inner compartment ties shall be made of leather ties, rawhide ties, or thin canvas strips. Leather and rawhide ties may be sewn on or riveted on. On some knapsacks buttons may also be used to close inner compartments. Appropriate buttons are bone, japanned tin, stippled edge, gutta percha, paper backed tin, or wood buttons. Knapsack hooks on the front support (chest) straps should be made of brass or unfinished iron (members are encouraged to obtain original’s as they are more durable than reproductions). Knapsacks may contain a removable wooden frame if so desired. “Hardpack” knapsacks are also allowed. All straps and closure buckles must conform to the Single/Double Bag knapsack regulations. [EOG/CS pages 202-205, 207]

WEAPONS

*Prohibitions*

·        Long knives shall not be carried at any time.

GENERAL NOTES: Long-arms other than a .58 caliber Enfield or Springfield will be considered on a case-by-case basis as required by the scenario portrayed. Model 1842 .69 Springfield Smoothbores/Rifled-Muskets may be carried only when appropriate for the scenario.

All smoothbores and rifles in the ranks of the company shall have a functioning half cock and shall be capable of bearing the full weight of the musket when supported only by the trigger.

All muskets shall be cleaned after firing. A weapons inspection shall be held prior to each firing demonstration and/or battle reenactment. Unsafe and/or excessively unclean weapons shall not be allowed in ranks due to the safety hazard they represent.

FIREARMS ENLISTED TROOPS

Model 1853 Enfield Rifled-Musket, .58 (.577) Caliber

The three-band Enfield is the preferred weapon of choice for members in the unit and is highly recommended for purchase by new members. It is preferred that Enfields be marked “Tower” (instead of “London Armory”). Enfield rifled-muskets shall be properly “defarbed” (top swivel replaced, first two barrel bands replaced, modern markings removed, period inspector’s stamps added, correct escutcheons, etc.). Members are advised to purchase an ‘ArmiSport’ (reproduction manufacturer) rifled-musket because they are more authentic with respect to the musket bands. [EOG/CS pages 36-37 (Top Weapon)]

Model 1861 Springfield Rifled-Musket, .58 Calibers

The Springfield was the most common weapon in the hands of Union troops. Thousands were captured by Confederate soldiers and pressed into service. This weapon should be a secondary choice for use by members. Springfield’s used by members should be “defarbed” (modern markings removed, period inspector stamps added, etc.). [EOG/US pages 40-41 (Top Weapon)]

U.S. Model 1842 Musket/Rifled-Musket, .69 Calibers

The U.S. Model 1842 musket was the standard infantry firearm of the U.S. Army during the War with Mexico. Retired in 1855, thousands were pressed into service at the start of the War Between the States (when about 10,000 were re-bored as rifles). This weapon is an excellent choice for early war impressions, although members are encouraged to obtain an Enfield first. 1842 Muskets/Rifled-Muskets should be “defarbed” (modern markings removed, period inspector stamps added, front sight brazed, etc.). [EOG/CS pages 28-29 (Musket/Bottom Weapon); EOG/US pages 32-33 (Rifled-Musket/Bottom Weapon)]

RIFLE STRAPS “Slings”

Members may choose to equip their weapons with straps. Rifle straps shall be made of russet leather with a cast or sheet-brass hook sewn and riveted to one end or made of canvas with a leather reinforcement sewn to the canvas with two standing leather loop keeper’s and a cast or sheet-brass hook sewn to one end. Both types of “slings” shall have holes punched through the leather for easy adjustment of the strap. [EOG/CS pages 36-37, 40-45]

NONCOMMISSIONED OFFICER WEAPONS

Sword/Scabbard

When required and appropriate for the scenario and portrayal, Sergeants may wear non-commissioned officer’s swords in addition to carrying their long arms. Due to the wide assortment of swords originally available to NCOs, greater scope in sword selection is allowed. Plain or engraved blades are acceptable. All swords are required to have a scabbard. Noncommissioned officers may carry side arms when the living history scenario requires them. Other ranks shall not wear noncommissioned officers weapons. A model for a noncommissioned officers sword is the 1840 U.S. noncommissioned officers sword. [EOG/US pages 80-81]

COMMISSIONED OFFICER WEAPONS

Sword/Scabbard

When on duty, officers shall  carry a sword when the living history scenario requires it. Due to the wide assortment of swords originally available to officers, greater scope in sword selection is allowed. Plain or engrave blades are acceptable. All swords are required to have a scabbard. The use of an officers’ sword knot is at the discretion of the officer. Other ranks shall not wear commissioned officers weapons. A model for a commissioned officers sword is the 1850 U.S. Army foot officers’ sword with brass guard and leather grip. [EOG/US pages 74-75]

Side-Arms

Use of a side arm by commissioned officers is optional. The choice of the side arm is at the discretion of the officer. Only officers may carry a side arm. One of the most common types of side arm was the .44 caliber, 1860 Colt “Army” revolver. Private purchase pocket pistols of smaller calibers were also popular. [EOG/CS pages 52-53]

AMMUNITION

Blank Cartridges/Caps

Only FFg or FFFg black powder is acceptable for use in making cartridges. Modern black powder propellants are STRICTLY FORBIDDEN!!!! Blank cartridges must be made of proper paper material and be properly constructed. Taping and stapling cartridges is STRICTLY FORBIDDEN!!!! Blank Cartridges should not be carried loose in cartridge boxes; instead they should be properly stored and secured in their cartridge box tin(s). Carrying blank cartridges in your pockets is STRICTLY FORBIDDEN!!!! Blank cartridges shall contain no more than 60 grains of black powder for .58 caliber weapons and 75 grains of black powder for .69 caliber weapons. Pistol loads shall contain no more than 35 grains of black powder.

These guidelines are a living document, meaning they can be revised at any time as new research and information is gleaned. 

Guidelines Created: February 2003 by John Difatta

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